 Learn more about Filtration Theory... The Problem Biological filtration of Koi ponds is a subject often overly complicated by those offering advice, especially when the advisee is a beginner. In the simplest terms, water contaminated with fish waste can be flowed over any surface and that surface will be colonized by bacteria capable of converting ammonia and nitrite into relatively harmless chemicals. Consequently, we can take any container, fill it with media and pass water through it, and thus we have created a filter... simple? But now the problems start! Together with the pumped water there is also a presence of solid matter (excrement) which has the ability of blocking the media thus necessitating the cleaning of the filter which in turn kills a large number of the bacteria. As it takes between 12 and 16 weeks for a filter to mature, and up to 2 years to reach maximum efficiency, the less the unit is stripped and cleaned the more capable it will become. To save the filter from blocking we must remove the solid matter prior to it contacting the media, hopefully allowing the final chamber to remain undisturbed forever. Now we have the perfect filter-good water and no work! Not quite.  A Solution By using a round chamber to accept water (via gravity) from the bottom drain through a large bore pipe, e.g.. 4" the water will rotate very slowly allowing the heavy solids to fall to the bottom and be discharged as necessary. Water is then taken to a second chamber and passed down through a media which is impossible to block and easily be rinsed without destroying bacteria (nylon brushes). Now all but the smallest particles have been removed as the water passes to the third and most effective chamber, and even these can be taken out by covering the media in this chamber with a 1" sheet of reticulated foam. We have now created a filter which is as maintenance free as possible. Maintenance Using this system, maintenance is severely curtailed. The first chamber should be discharged via drain as your solid waste builds up. Usually this is weekly. The second chamber should be cleaned only when heavy contamination has taken place. To do this, simply remove the brushes and swish them back and forth in a bowl of pond water. The third and final chamber should be cleaned annually by removing the reticulated foam and rinsing in a bowl of pond water. Other options to consider include an ultraviolet filter. If installed in the beginning green water will be prevented from starting, thus the problem of dead water blocking the filter will not be a problem. Bacteria If at all possible acquire a quantity of mature media for the final chamber as this will go a long way to speeding the bacterial growth in the filter. Remember there are no short cuts to good filtration. The best filters in the world still require time and constant checking using reliable test kits for ammonia and nitrite. Once the nitrite reading disappears the nitrite cycle is in operation and we have a maturing filter. Remember, time needs to take a hand, so be patient until it reaches full maturity. In this design, it should be noted that the water takes a downward course through each chamber. This allows you to see when the contamination of the brushes or foam has taken place. Filters where the water flows in an upward direction block from the bottom, making it impossible to monitor closely the condition of the filter. Remember each time you clean any part of the filter some degree of damage to the level of bacterial activity must take place. So at all cost try and avoid disturbing the media in the final chamber, thus allowing it to perform to its maximum efficiency.
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